Denmark to Belgium

Denmark continued to be a firm favourite. It didn't have spectacular mountains or awe-inspiring views but it did have a massive amount of charm. Wonderful people who were keen to find out about our journey, gorgeous villages and an endless supply of tracks and trails.

Our trail took us through Jelling an important ancient village with a large stone ship and two burial mounds. It was also the royal seat of the first monarchs of Denmark during the Viking Age.

The runic stone at the bow of the ship is from the 900's. The ship encompasses a burial site of what is guessed to be a Viking woman, Vibrog, as her name appears on the stone.

We passed another stone with markings a little further along the trail.

We liked the signs that greet you as you enter each village. This one made us smile!

Our daily routine nearly always consists of a second breakfast! The first gets used up on packing up camp and getting on the trail. So we find a picnic table and enjoy coffee and biscuits! This one for you Jennie 😉. Black filter coffee with a splash of honey, and just so you know, those beer bottles in the background are not ours!

We cycled through the very picturesque Øster Løgum.

Our days in Denmark were coming to an end. You know that feeling when you get to the end of a really good book and you feel quite bereft. This was us. Our last night was a wild camp before heading to the border with Germany.

The EDT trail takes us to the eastern most point on the border and this bridge marks the crossing to Germany. You are not permitted to cycle over it so we did as we were told and pushed.

It felt different. Difficult to put into words, but for some reason we were a little out of sorts. We were also more than half way through our trip, feeling a little tired and the weather was looking foul for the next week or two.

After a very mediocre ride from the border south through Flensburg we at last found some off road trails.

Although we rode in the rain most of the time, we also found ourselves sheltering on occasion.

It became clear to us that we would not experience the same luxury of camping spots that we had done so far. Wild camping is not permitted and given that this area is not really on the main tourist route, campsites are few and far between. We arrived at one (that was advertised) to see it had closed down. Our usual “wait till 5pm and decide” needed to change. So we researched in advance where we would stay and hoped this would work.

We wanted to stay close to Hamburg and spend a day visiting the city. Unfortunately the stars didn’t align, and with a lack of available campsites meant us cycling through the city in the late evening. Our only option that night was 20km further south.

The European Divide Trail (EDT) is split into stages and this bench marks the end of one of those stages. It was also a perfect place for a chocolate bar and a rest.

This was where we had decided to leave the EDT and start to head south west back to England, via the Calais to Dover ferry.

We plotted our own route on Komoot and set off.

We stayed at this campsite with a lovely little farm shop.

The rain continued and with no kitchen facilities Martin needed to cook from the confines of the tent.

A quick word about our bikes. After a few weeks on the road they become your friend! They are your transport, your luggage mule and give a sense of meaning to your day. Once packed up each morning it feels right to climb aboard and set off. 😊

Martin tells me that you haven't been on a proper cycle tour unless you have stood on a fuel station forecourt eating pies and drinking chocolate milk! Shops are closed on a Sunday, but fuel stations are open.

Still in Germany and still experiencing sunshine and showers we put in some bigger days.

We sped across Germany and came to the border of The Netherlands, close to Losser, in no time at all.

We were transported back to cycle lanes and pretty villages immediately. The rain showers kept on coming so we took shelter for a couple of nights in a quirky yellow cabin. Just our second solid roof in 2 months.

From here our trail took us through the city of Arnhem.

On the roadside we came across a Sherman tank, encased in concrete and a remnant of the 1950’s Ijssel Line, a NATO Cold War line of defence against the Soviet Union. These buried tanks were used as part of a wider defence plan where the whole valley could be flooded in the event of a Soviet invasion.

We spent our days getting soaked before the sun dried us again. This pattern happened a few times each day. Apparently the jet stream that usually sits north of the UK at this time of year, is now just south of the country. This is bringing very unsettled weather and we are in the firing line of rain and a head wind. Brings it home that I can't be a dry weather cyclist when touring!

These two pictures taken 30mins apart.

We were heading quickly towards Belgium. The rain puts us off hanging around sightseeing and also pushes us to go further. Still some delights to be seen as we peddle our way.

Blackberries too!

We realised slightly late that we had crossed into Belgium. Here we are looking back at the border…

We are looking forward to crossing Belgium and into France before heading for a ferry to Dover. We won't have used all our allotted 90 days visa and so it gives us the option to have a short European holiday sometime in the next 3 months.

Thanks so much for following along. We really do appreciate it.

See you next time.

N & M